On Saturday and Sunday, from eleven in the morning until two, the patio at Valette belongs to Valette Wines. Valette Wines is the small-production label Dustin Valette makes with six winemakers, Jesse Katz, Michael Browne, Bob Cabral, Tom Rochioli, David Ramey and Erica Stancliff, each of whom has built a career on the grape they make here. The wines are poured a few steps from the kitchen that cooks alongside them.

There is more than one way in. A flight is a set of small pours lined up so the wines can be tasted one against another, and one of the flights is wine alone. Another brings a bite with every pour, cooked for that particular wine rather than chosen to go near it. The plates can also be ordered on their own, among them the day boat scallops in puff pastry that have been on Valette's menu since the restaurant opened in 2015. Wines are poured by the glass and sold by the bottle, and the kitchen follows the season, so what is on offer moves through the year.

The patio is at Valette, 344 Center Street in Healdsburg. Reservations are recommended. The tasting menus are set for the whole table and need a day's notice, so they cannot be ordered on arrival. Questions to orders@valettewines.com or 707.395.6340, and tables through OpenTable.